Sorry, sorry, this is not meant to be a tirade about Clinton Street Baking Co. Let's move onto the far more pleasant topic of Saxon + Parole. Check out the decor.
Okay, maybe you can't truly see what I mean about a classy horse stable - but the horse pictures above the mantle! and the light and dark wood! and the woven chairs! - but rest assured that Saxon + Parole is definitely designed to resemble the inside of a horse stable. You'll get it once you get up to use their restroom. Think stalls and water trough, but beautiful and made for humans.
Let's take a look at the tableau. You're not only looking at Smithfield Mangalista ham on toasted potato Parmesan cakes, poached eggs, and yuzu hollandais, but also a really great glass of juice made of beets, celery, lemon, and other good things. One of my favorite things about breakfast and brunch in the city is the interesting fresh juices offered. This one was right up there in terms of what works. Great color, really concentrated clean taste, and not diluted with a bunch of ice. The coffee was strong, and the latte was no Stumptown but pretty good.
I can never resist a brunch entrée with poached eggs, especially eggs benedict. There's just something about nudging open that delicate mound to liberate the rich emulsion of runny egg yolk and warm hollandais onto the texturally more resistant meat and bread (or, in this case, lightly crisped potato cakes) underneath that makes it one of my favorite brunch dishes. Everyone does it a little different, and Saxon+Parole's meat-centric dinners definitely made a morning entrance here. The Smithfield Mangalista ham had a bold flavor reminiscent of jamón but the pull of thin, delicate jerky. It made cutting into the stack a bit of a mess, but messes are not an issue if it's yummy. I have to say, though, that the potatoes were a tad unsalted, but their smooth freshness made up for it.
Now, let's talk about the pancakes.
They aren't the best in New York City, and some may like 'em thicker, thinner, heavier, lighter, more flaccid and spongier (but seriously, why?), but there's no doubt that these are damn good pancakes. Moist, slightly sweet from the buttermilk, with a delicately crispy glaze. The two pancakes come topped with crème fraîche, red wine poached pears, and a sprig of mint. Delicious.
But there's always room for dessert.
Although this chocolate soufflé was a challenge, because I have a savory tooth, and because this sizable chocolate soufflé was a mound of very sweet dark chocolate decadence. Your spoon dives swiftly into the slight crunch in the top before sinking into the fluffy softness of intensely sweet and rich chocolate. The whiskey ice cream was refreshingly cold and creamy, but a little more of it would have been appreciated. As for the jam on the side...again, I have a savory tooth, but I can't imagine why anyone would want this dessert to be sweeter.
We left happy and satisfied, and just stuffed enough to have that post-lazy-Sunday-brunch contentment with life.
Experience...4 outta 5.
Gorgeous space, brunch fare that takes it just a little further, and a horse stable concept. Basically hits all the NYC restaurant criteria of feasting your eyes as well as your mouth.
Saxon + Parole
316 Bowery, at Bleecker Street
New York, NY 10012
(212) 254 - 0350
Chef Brad Farmerie
